There are a lot of brands of whiskey out there. The run the gamut from trying to get started with their own distillate to those are only interested in sourcing barrels to create blends. In order to sell these whiskeys that don’t share the hype with the products of Sazerac, Beam, or the other major established players, many brands turn to colorful marketing or fancy bottles to pull in the interest of buyers. Among the multiple color bottles that sit on shelfs, few scream, ‘Look at me!’ like Pinhook. Among their highest proof offerings is the annual high proof bourbons named after a horse. Enter Pinhook 2022 High Proof Bourbon – “Bourbondini”.
Pinhook 2022 High Proof Bourbon – “Bourbondini”
- Mash Bill: 75% Corn, 15% Rye, 10% Corn
- Proof: 116 (A.B.V. 58%)
- Age: Aged more than 3 years (NAS on front)
- Vintage: 2022
- Filtration: Unfiltered
- Distilled at Castle & Key
Sight: Chestnut Sherry Oloroso
Smell: The nose has a layer of heat if you’re not wary about sticking your nose straight in, and it makes no attempt to disguise this fact. Pulling back slightly, notes of cantaloupe, melon, caramel, blackberry, and other dark fruits come out. Spicy oak and toasted sugar get in on the mix as well – giving some space for cherries and other pastry like notes. The blasts of spice accentuate the heat, making the nose feel prickly.
Sip: The mouthfeel starts off light, with more melon and honeydew notes. The body quickly picks up, but keeps that highly evaporative light characteristic (almost like extremely high proof rum). Notes of cinnamon spice, caramel, fresh fig, and pome (apple / pear) fruit come in. Some grain notes are present as it a bit of rye herbal notes and burnt oak.
Savor: The finish is apple skins, fresh figs, and caramel with spices. The finish lingers dryly with a bit of herbal, burnt oak.
Pinhook 2022 High Proof Bourbon – “Bourbondini” is light, fruity, and full of fire. Given the mashbill and the age statement, it’s not surprising that there are some wild and unrefined notes. Despite being slightly unrefined, it is coherent and brings a lot of flavors you can’t find in most of the common large distiller offerings. As a sip goes, you’ll definitely want to sip slowly and have some water nearby.
In Cocktails
In a Manhattan, the emphasis moves into cloves and black tea mixed with caramelized apples and touches of herbs. Notes of toasted oak, tobacco, and cigar box come in with a bit of burnt sugar. The body is relatively robust despite the lighter flavor profile. The flavors are actually quite well rounded with the slight vanilla background of the Carpano Antica. Overall, it’s a nice, if slightly lighter character Manhattan.
In Review – Pinhook 2022 High Proof Bourbon – “Bourbondini”
Pinhook 2022 High Proof Bourbon – “Bourbondini” retails between $50-$60. The marketing is undoubtedly on point in that price range, but the juice is a bit on the inconsistent side. Flavors a good, and on the lighter end of the spectrum which is something unusual amongst the bruising barrel strengths that are more common. Which is where the rub begins, as it ends up competing against other high end offerings like Wild Turkey Rare Breed, Larceny Barrel Proof, and 1792 Full Proof. Where this has an edge is availability and supporting a new brand. Like the horse, that’s quite a tall order to get on with. We can’t recommend this as a must have in your bar, but it’s certainly worth a try if you get an opportunity.