Nick, Author at First Pour Cocktails

Basic Witch

Posted on October 18, 2021October 29, 2021 by Nick

The first of our Halloween Cocktails for 2021, the Basic Witch started its life as a Pumpkin Spice Old Fashioned. The original test using Wild Turkey 101 and Pumpkin Spice Syrup resulted in a super spicy but not particularly balanced drink. This resulted in wondering how we could still create a basic pumpkin spice drink, but keep a balance. The result was a riff on the basic bitch love of pumpkin spice lattes and a nod to raising the beast from the depths, the Kraken.

Basic Witch

2 oz

Kraken Rum

½ oz

Demerara Syrup

1 oz

Heavy Cream

½ oz

Pumpkin Spice Syrup

5 drops

Fee Bros Old Fashioned Bitters

Dusting

Cinnamon

In a mixing vessel, combine rum and demerara syrup. Add ice and stir. In a separate glass, combine heavy cream and pumpkin spice syrup. Using a milk frother, whip the cream and syrup together for 20-25 seconds to create cold foam. Pour the rum and demerara mixture into a rocks glass. Layer the cold foam over the top of the rum using the back of a spoon. Add a dusting of cinnamon and use a bar straw or pipette dropper to drops of bitters to the foam.

The Basic Witch results in a mix of sweet and roasted sugar notes from the rum being contrasted with gentle pie spices and cream. The layering results in a changing drink experience that swings between creamy and spiced and boozy and brown sugar. The harmony between the results in a brown sugar laced pumpkin spice creaminess that sweet and balanced. Toward the end, the creaminess brings the drink full circle, giving an almost coffee and cream like character to the drink.

Drink Notes & Recommendations

Basic Witch Carried Upstair — This Basic Witch was poured and then carried up the stairs – finish it near your guest!

As with any cocktails that involve cream, there is a potential for the cream to curdle in the Basic Witch. This is most often due to acid, but can also be caused by alcohol. Due to the proof of Kraken, there is a good chance to curdle this drink. To avoid this, go slowly when pouring the cream over the back of the layering spoon. In addition, avoid heavily agitating this drink. It is recommend you pour the cream it as close to where your guests will being enjoying it as possible. Walking up stairs for example, could agitate the drink and result in curdling.

Basic Witch Cocktail - Testing Version - Not Moved (Other than to drink) — Basic Witch Cocktail – Testing Version – Not Moved (Other than to drink)

Ingredients

Kraken Black Spiced Rum – We chose Kraken for it’s rich vanilla and molasses notes, as well as subtle and roasty spices. This offering it should be noted is their original, which comes in at 94 proof. Kraken is a black spiced rum that should be widely available, but in a pinch, you might consider Goslings.
Demerara Syrup – Combine 2 parts Demerara Sugar to 1 part water and bring to a simmer stirring over high heat. Remove from heat once the sugar has completely dissolved. Allow to cool and bottle. Refrigerate. The high sugar content will work to inhibit bacterial growth for an extended duration – throw out if any clouding or mold develop.
Heavy Cream – Use heavy cream here to ensure the fat content is high enough to reduce the risk of curdling. Make sure your cream is cold.

Pumpkin Spice Syrup

Ingredients:

20g Cinnamon (crushed into approx 1 in sections)
10g Nutmeg – broken into 10-20 pieces / nutmeg using the back of a knife or mortar and pestle
5g Cloves
7g Fresh Ginger cut into thin slices – 1/16″ – 1/8″
500g Water
500g Sugar
30g Neutral Grain Spirit (optional)

Bring all ingredients except neutral grain spirit to a boil in a sauce pot stirring regularly. Boil for 5 minutes while continuing to stir regularly. Remove from heat and allow to cool for 30 minutes. Strain through a coffee filter into a clean glass bottle and add neutral grain spirits if using. Refrigerate. Dispose of if any clouding or mold develop.

Equipment and Techniques

Milk Frother: These are used to agitate milk or other ingredients (for example whipping egg whites) at high rates of speed. They don’t require a lot of skill to use, and don’t require heated milk to make foam. We use a Bean Envy which you can have from Amazon for under $20 (and use it with your coffee!)
Creating the Cold Foam: Using a milk frother, start by submerging the wheel of the milk frother into the cream and syrup. Turn on the milk frother so you can see the creaming being drawn into the center (and into the wheel). This process is adding air to the cream. Continue this for 20 – 25 seconds. Do not exceed this time significantly or you will create whipped cream. This amount of time will allow you to pour the thickened, aerated cream over the spoon to layer the drink. We use this one from Bean Envy*
Layering the Drink: Place a bar spoon so the bowl is face down and the spoon is nearly touching the surface of the drink. Slowly pour the cold foam cream over the back of the spoon, slowly raising the spoon to match the increasing height of the foam. Continue until you are finished pouring foam.
Adding the Bitters Design: Once you have dropped bitters into the cold foam, take a straw or tooth pick and place the tip into the foam before the bitters you want to use to decorate. Drag the toothpick or straw through the bitter connecting the drops or making a design as you see fit.

* – This link is an affiliate link which may result in First Pour Cocktails getting a portion of the sale – it helps us keep the site running and bringing you new cocktails!

Looking for more Halloween Cocktails? Check out our full list here:

Halloween Inspired Cocktails 2019 - I Am Dracula ... I Bid You Welcome — Dracula

Halloween Inspired Cocktails 2019 - Slimer — Slimer

Four Roses Single Barrel

Posted on October 15, 2021August 4, 2023 by Nick

Four Roses Single Barrel sits between their Small Batch and Small Batch Selects in their line up. If you factor in their highly sought after and extremely limited annual limited edition, then you can think of this as the middle of the road for their offerings. Our previous review of the Small Batch left us with the impression that Four Roses was making a solid, if slightly delicate bourbon that on occasions would slip out of the cocktail. This widely available single barrel is a high rye blend at 35%, and a higher proof point, so does it fare better?

Four Roses Single Barrel

Made using only the OBSV formulation, Four Roses Single Barrel comes in with the following characteristics:

Blend (B): 60% Corn | 35% Rye | 5% Malted Barley
Expected Characteristics:
- Straight Whiskey (S)
- Rich Fruit (O)
- Delicate Fruit (V)
Warehouse No: QN
Barrel: 11-4E
A.B.V.: 50%
Aged: 7-9 Years

Sight: A burnished deep copper

Smell: There’s a bit of heat in the lead, but it gives way to perfumed vanilla (almost floral) and hints of dried fruits. Touches of honey and poached pears join in. A very subtle hint of spice hangs around the edges.

Sip: The body is delicate but firm. It doesn’t quite give up it’s secrets right away, but rather slowly opens up. Delicate notes of flowers, plum skins, and a sweet vanilla express themselves. Further back, a honeyed note overlays a touch of oak and spice. Unripe nectarines join in toward the end.

Savor: The finish is more unripe nectarine, slight caramel, and a healthy amount of toasted oak and spice. It lingers pleasantly, waiting for another sip.

Four Roses Single Barrel is an interestingly delicate and powerful bourbon. On the one hand, the flavors come at you on each sip, begging to be recognized. On the other, the flavors are subtle, almost restrained. The net effect is a wonderfully sippable single barrel that’s both inviting and unique.

In Cocktails

Making a Manhattan with Four Roses Single Barrel emphasizes the beautiful honey and stone fruit characteristics that hide in the background. Hints of peach and honey overlap spiced caramel and cigar box. Hints of herbs and red fruit join in, and there’s a wonderful balance achieved between sweet and dry. On the finish, it’s marvelously tannic, while also gently suggesting coffee, clove, and burnt marshmallow notes. In a cocktail, it’s quite beautiful.

Update – Comparing Barrels

Warehouse No: KE
Barrel: 72-5A

Last year, we picked up a bottle for the groomsmen during the wedding (it is great whiskey after all). People believe that the number in the right side of the barrel makes a large difference in flavor profile, with the higher numbers indicating better flavor. The idea is the warehouse’s high changes how the whiskey ages in that 7-9 year period. Below are some notes:

Sight: A burnished deep copper.

Smell: Light pears and apples come out with notes of delicate rose petal and honeysuckle. Vanilla and caramel notes come up with plenty of nice spice and touches of plum. The nose is slightly lighter, heading toward a more bright and peppy plum (or cran/raspberry). It’s lively and a little bright.

Sip: The palate is elegant and moderately weighted, pulling in a nice vanilla note off the start. There’s a subtle sweetness here that gives way to creamy caramel, black pepper, plum, and a bit of honey. Mild oak and spice come out, giving it a touch of backing warmth.

Savor: The ending is smooth, vanilla and honey with bits of plum and gently spiced oak. The ending lingers heading toward black pepper and fresh plums.

Overall, it’s a great example of the whiskey, with a very similar texture and flavor profile. That said, it’s definitely a single barrel, and equally good to the first, even if it’s different. The flavors are dynamic, evolving, and continues to drive home the value I originally experienced.

In Review – Four Roses Single Barrel

As with all single barrel bourbons, your mileage with Four Roses Single Barrel may vary. As sippers go, it’s inviting and complex enough to keep interest, while subtle enough to tease the imbiber. As a cocktail bourbon, there are benefits to knowing the formulation isn’t going to shift. That said, barrel variation may lead to drinks made with this shifting slightly.

Finally, there’s the price to consider. At $45, there’s a good amount of value here, but the returns are on a sliding scale when comparing to the Four Roses Small Batch. The main benefit is that it covers some of the weakness seen from a body and character standpoint in a mixed drink. While there’s no shame in using it in that application (quite the contrary, it’s delicious), it also may lead to underappreciating the whiskey itself depending on the drink you make. All in all, there is a corresponding bump in quality when making a cocktail with Four Roses Single Barrel, but for casual imbibers, you may struggle to taste the benefit over their Small Batch or other bourbons around the $30 price point.

The Classics: Death In The Afternoon

Posted on October 11, 2021September 15, 2021 by Nick

Ernest Hemingway is well known for championing cocktails such as the Daiquiri and the Mojito, but he also is the purported creator of the absinthe based Death In The Afternoon. The drink was reportedly dreamed up after Hemingway spent time in France and developed an affinity for absinthe in the early 1930’s. As a result, it even became Hemingway’s contribution to a 1935 Cocktail Book called “So Red The Nose or Breath In The Afternoon”. It was described thusly:

Pour 1 jigger absinthe into a Champagne glass. Add iced Champagne until it attains the proper opalescent milkiness. Drink 3 to 5 of these slowly

It’s fairly rare in classic cocktail books that such clear directions are given. Yet, here it is. So let’s take a crack and bringing Hemingway’s creation back to life (but maybe avoid having 3-5 of them at once!).

Death In The Afternoon

1 ½ oz

Absinthe or Pastis

5 oz

Sparkling Wine

In a flute, added Absinthe or Pastis. Pour chilled sparkling wine over the absinthe or pastis. No garnish.

Death In The Afternoon is unsurprisingly aggressively forward in it’s fennel and star anise characteristics. The bright, bubbly nature of the wine is beautifully setup to help liven the drink, but doesn’t get in the way of the licorice notes. You should be aware that while absinthe and pastis can have a sweetness about them, this drink is inherently dry. This makes it both strong, and unquestionably refreshing. While the complexity is lovely, you might find yourself unable to follow the prescribed 3-5.

Drink Notes & Recommendations

Absinthe or pastis used here is going to make a massive difference in your end flavor. For Pernod, which we used, the star anise and fennel characteristics were given space, and the licorice notes expanded with some of the wines natural citrus. The complexity remains, but is spaced out and given some additional flavors to bounce off of.

Absinthe or Pastis – The primary difference between absinthe and pastis is that pastis uses star anise as the principal flavoring, instead of using green anise, wormwood of fennel that are used in Absinthe. The resulting liqueur is different in it’s flavor profile, but similarly enough that it can be used as a substitute to absinthe. If you looking for recommendations, you should be able to find Pernod (pastis) in most places, but we also recommend St. George Absinthe.
Sparkling Wine – Absinthe is a fairly dominate flavor, so don’t both with anything overly expensive. Look for cava, sparkling wine, or prosecco in the $10 – $20 range. We used Kirkland’s Prosecco for ours.

Fords Gin

Posted on October 8, 2021October 3, 2021 by Nick

Fords Gin seeks to be a versatile gin that is perfect for classic gin cocktails. This is an ideal application of Gin, as of all the base spirits, it’s one of the only choices that doesn’t also have a significant number of individuals enjoying it neat. The result of the choices made by Fords is a gin that seeks to bring out the best mix of flavors that are awakened by the addition of other elements, be they water or cocktail ingredients.

Fords Gin

Most gins don’t give you the exact percentage breakdown of their herbs and spice. Fords is a bit of an exception in this regard, providing exactly what percentage of each item is. Per their website:

Juniper – 49.5%
Coriander – 30.5%
Lemon – 3.2%
Bitter Orange – 3.2%
Grapefruit – 3.2%
Cassia – 2%
Angelica – 3.2%
Jasmine – 3.2%
Orris – 2%

Sight: Clear.

Smell: Juniper jumps out, but it’s more subdued. It’s followed by notes of creamy lemon and orange, earthy notes reminiscent of cassia and coriander, and floral notes. There’s a touch of heat as well.

Sip: Smooth and silky on the start, notes of citrus lead off the palate, bringing out orange and lemon zest. The background begins to building, adding touches of spice, plenty of juniper and coriander, and hints of jasmine. The heat on the noses doesn’t materialize here, but a pretty brightness does.

Savor: The ending brings in more notes or orange zest and lemon. It gets more pithy and a touch dry as it goes.

Fords Gin has a nice complexity to it, and is clearly configured to try to achieve balance instead of dominance. The overall smoothness gives it a pleasant texture that seems to be built to compliment other flavors. The spicing is just complex enough that it keeps begging your attention in the background. Overall, it’s very inviting and curiously interesting.

In Cocktails

In a Martini Fords Gin is well balanced, giving a nice mix of juniper and spice while also providing a space for the citrus to thrive. The texture is smooth, and the finish is clean and slightly citrusy and floral. Some of the spice notes are surprisingly prominent, and help to subdue the traditional juniper forward nature that are associated with gin.

In Review – Fords Gin

Fords Gin earns a lot of positive nods for both it’s pedigree and the development focused balanced drinks. Fords Gin does fairly well at achieving balance, especially on its own. It also does fairly well in cocktails, although it isn’t the most prevalent and sometimes almost blends with other elements. The other element of Fords Gin is the price. At nearly $30, it sits at almost double a traditional gin like Beefeater. The problem is the flavor isn’t twice as nice. For these reasons, we encourage lovers of gin to try Fords, but it’s not a must have for those running their home bar.

The Classics: French 95

Posted on October 4, 2021September 13, 2021 by Nick

If you need to increase the size of your artillery shells, may we recommend a French 95. The cousin of the French 75, this cocktail swaps for gin for bourbon. This change adds caramelized sugars and spices to drive depth.

French 95

1 oz

Gin

½ oz

Lemon Juice

½ oz

Simple Syrup

5 oz

Sparkling Wine

Combine all ingredients except wine in a shaker. Add a small amount of ice and short shake. Double strain into a coupe, and top with sparkling wine.

The French 95 is similarly refreshing to it’s gin based cousin, but with something a little extra. While the gin provides and herbal foil for the lemon to work against, the bourbon instead gives this drink a warmth. It comes through in touches of cherry and brown sugar that are not normally present in dry white wines. That warmth gives it an inviting character that’s more relaxing. The balance is well structure with sweet and bright, and it’s a thoroughly sessionable cocktail.

Drink Notes & Recommendations

A French 95 could be made in either a flute of coupe, depending on your glassware and preference. We’ve chosen to mix it up for aesthetics, but you should choose what works best for you. We actually prefer a flute, simply for the ability to drink it easily.

Bourbon – You can use any standard bourbon here you like. We chose Buffalo Trace for ours, but Wild Turkey 101, Elijah Craig Small Batch, or any other would do.
Lemon Juice – For best results, use fresh squeezed.
Simple Syrup – The standard 1:1 water to sugar simple is recommended here.
Sparkling Wine – You don’t need to break the bank to make a French 95. Should you choose to use something expensive (like real Champagne with will run $45 – $60), it will be correspondingly good, but the returns aren’t likely to be 4 to 5 times better than using a $10 to $15 bottle of sparkling wine. We recommend prosecco or cava here, and used Kirkland’s Prosecco for ours.

Bacardi Superior

Posted on October 1, 2021 by Nick

Bacardi always seemed like a step up in college. Compared to the questionably named brands hiding out on the bottom shelf, it had an air of quality to it. The more experience I had with rum, the more I learned that there were really two kinds of rum that Bacardi was invested in making. On one hand, they offered good quality, reasonably aged rums at (usually) reasonable prices for mixing with a couple of truly high end offerings mixed in. On the other hand, they offer mass marketed, entry level rums that are usually uninspired, and occasionally questionable in taste without a healthy dose of strongly flavored mixers to cover. At $8, Bacardi Superior fits squarely in the second category.

Bacardi Superior

Bacardi Superior is lightly aged in oak (no age statement), and filtered for color.

Sight: Clear.

Smell: There are notes of ethanol, rum ester, vanilla, and tropical fruits that lead off. Then the nose kind of stops evolving. What you smell on the first pass is pretty much where it stays.

Sip: The palate is thin and light, neither dry nor sweet. The note of ester and banana peel starts, with hints of alcohol and touches of vanilla extract and powdered sugar.

Savor: The ending is short, alcohol forward, and slightly dry. It lingers briefly, with just a touch of tropical fruit.

Bacardi Superior is presumably superior to something, but it’s not a first choice rum for us. As the price point implies, there should be low expectations going in, and from that standpoint, it delivers. It’s not offensive or aggressive, but it’s also not interesting. Rather, it does a lightly aged style of rum decently in a way you won’t overtly notice in Rum and Coke or similar mixed drink.

In Cocktails

The main problem with Bacardi Superior is that doesn’t add anything. In a Daiquiri you get plenty of lime and sweetness, but the rum is more an alcohol weight and slightly tropical flavor twist. Where it does best is hiding in something, like a Rum and Coke or spiking a punch. Again, the key here is not to expect much, and there’s not a lot to be disappointed in.

In Review – Bacardi Superior

If you had to buy a rum, and none of recommended rums are available, then Bacardi Superior isn’t the end of the world. From a flavor standpoint, it’s fine. From a price standpoint it’s good. It’s just not recommendable or memorable. Besides, Bacardi makes better things – like their Bacardi 8 – and used to make better lightly aged rums (like Bacardi Mastro de Ron).

The Classics: French 75

Posted on September 27, 2021September 13, 2021 by Nick

The French 75 is a classic drink named after the size of shells which were used by French Artillery guns. Similar to the 75mm shells used, a series of French 75s could do some damaged. Behind the delicate and dainty façade of the sparkling wine there’s a gin kicker and a lemon zinger involved. Best of all, these cocktails are refreshing and easy to make.

French 75

1 oz

Gin

½ oz

Lemon Juice

½ oz

Simple Syrup

5 oz

Sparkling Wine

Combine all ingredients except wine in a shaker. Add a small amount of ice and short shake. Double strain into a wine flute, and top with sparkling wine. Garnish with a lemon twist.

The French 75 is a delightfully refreshing cocktail in line with a Tom Collins, but with a more wine forward kick. The flavors of gin provide a gentle herbal note while the citrus from the wine interacts with the lemon. The small bubbles give a textural appeal, and the drink is in balance between sweet and bracing.

Drink Notes & Recommendations

The French 75 is one of the easiest sparkling cocktails to make, and requires mostly ingredients you already have around. The biggest issues you might encounter are glassware and picking a sparkling wine. We’ll cover the sparkling wine below, but feel free to use a coupe in the event you don’t have a flute.

Gin – Any gin will actually do for a French 75, although a traditional cocktail will be made with London Dry. We used Beefeater for ours.
Lemon Juice – For best results, use fresh squeezed.
Simple Syrup – The standard 1:1 water to sugar simple is recommended here.
Sparkling Wine – You don’t need to break the bank to make a French 75. Should you choose to use something expensive (like real Champagne with will run $45 – $60), it will be correspondingly good, but the returns aren’t likely to be 4 to 5 times better than using a $10 to $15 bottle of sparkling wine. We recommend prosecco or cava here, and used Kirkland’s Prosecco for ours.

The Classics: Airmail

Posted on September 24, 2021September 12, 2021 by Nick

Basic home bars can make a series of drinks with the addition of a bottle of sparkling wine. Among them is the Airmail. While airmail originally started in the 1910’s and 1920’s, the cocktail didn’t appear until almost halfway through the 20th century. While the naming of the cocktail is a mystery, the actual drink is a tuned up Daiquiri adding flavor with honey and sparkling wine. While a bit far from a true Tiki drink, this drink fits well for fans of rum.

Airmail

1 oz

Aged Rum

½ oz

Lime Juice

½ oz

Rich Honey Syrup

5 oz

Sparkling Wine

Combine rum, honey, and lime in a shaker. Add ice and shake. Double strain into a flute. Top with sparkling wine.
No garnish.

The Airmail does a nice job straddling the line between dry and sweet, and elegantly balances the flavors as it goes. The rum really is given an opportunity to shine here, bringing in subtle caramel notes, touches of spice, hints of molasses or brown sugar, and tropical fruit funk. Aided by the brightness of the lime and citrus qualities of the sparkling wine, it becomes both rich and refreshing.

Drink Notes & Recommendations:

The rum is a key flavor driver in an Airmail, and you should plan accordingly. Expect this to be the dominate note in your cocktail, while wine serves to expand the flavors and add more complexity.

Aged Rum – We used Bacardi 8 here, but any moderately aged rum will do. Other recommended bottles include Doorly X.O., El Pasador de Oro, and Kirk and Sweeney 12. You could also try Appleton Reserve for a more funky version, or a lightly aged rum to emphasize more of the supporting notes or less spice.
Rich Honey Syrup – Combine 85 g water and 200 g honey in an 8 oz mason jar and seal. Sous vide at 145 degrees for 2 hr. Remove from the water bath and allow to cool. Once cool, bottle. If desired, add 15 g of 150+ Proof Neutral Grain Spirit or vodka if desired. Shake gently to combine. Refrigerate.
Sparkling Wine – You could spend lots of money for a bottle of Dom Perignon, but that’d be a waste of great champagne. Instead, look for sparkling wines around $10 – 15 a bottle listed as dry or brut. These include sparkling wines, Cavas, and Proseccos. We used Kirkland’s Asolo Prosecco for about $7 a bottle.
Lime Juice – Use fresh squeezed for best results.

Used Bacaradi 8 and Costco Prosecco

Ezra Brooks 99 Bourbon

Posted on September 20, 2021September 21, 2021 by Nick

As I previously mentioned, my first exposure to Ezra Brooks was the OHLQ store pick Distiller’s Collection bottle. The bottle so wowed me that I felt the need to explore at least one other Ezra Brooks product. While getting to 107 in there line up is no longer possible (without a store pick), they still offer both a 99 proof and barrel proof offering. To make an appropriate evaluation, I chose to take the smaller price different, and compare with the Ezra Brooks 99 Bourbon (retailing for $24 at time of purchase – compared to $35 for the Distiller’s pick).

Ezra Brooks 99 Bourbon

Sight: Deep copper bordering on sherry.

Smell: Notes of vanilla, caramel, and hints of ethanol lead off. The nose is sweet with touches of caramelized pome fruit and a hint of something bright (like pineapple?). Hay and grain notes add some backbone.

Sip: The sip starts off rather middling, neither smooth nor harsh. Notes of charred oak slowly creep in before ceding some space to vanilla and light caramel. Touches of peanuts and sweet pops of light brown sugar come out as well.

Savor: The ending leaves a bit of that sweetness and a lightly tannic charred oak finish.

Ezra Brooks 99 Bourbon is obviously younger just from a sight perspective, and the nose shortly after confirms this with a straightforward enjoyable bourbon characteristic. The sip doesn’t really change this, offering a nice amount of bourbon flavor without getting too complex or interesting. The finish is a bit more of the same, but with a bit more of an oak influence. Overall, it’s an acceptable sip that’s slightly sweet and wouldn’t be unpleasant on ice.

In Cocktails

Making a Manhattan with Ezra Brooks 99 makes a drink forward loaded on sweetness. The result is a Manhattan that naturally emphasizes caramel, brown sugar, brandied cherries, fruity red notes, and vanilla. Even with the use of Angostura bitters, there’s a bit of a turned down spice component here. While the vermouth is usually working over time to help bring out the bourbon’s characteristics, they almost seem to share the space as equals here. With that said, both elements seem to be adding caramel notes, making a very caramelized Manhattan.

Ezra Brooks 99 Bourbon In Review

Ezra Brooks 99 Bourbon is a pleasant bourbon that’s not particularly dominant. It’s sweet and friendly, but almost comes across as gentle. There’s something interesting to be said for making a gentler or sweeter drink with it, but it’s not going to appease drinkers of high rye, bold and brash bourbons. Most regrettable is the gulf between the Ezra Brooks 99 Bourbon and Ezra Brooks Distiller’s Collection Bourbon. At only $10, there’s a massive gulf of flavor. As a result, this is a recommendation to try or sample before committing to a full bottle.

Ezra Brooks Distiller’s Collection Bourbon – OHLQ Selection #1

Posted on September 17, 2021September 21, 2021 by Nick

Allocated bourbon and store picks are exciting. They offer an opportunity to receive a single barrel selection at an equal or better price than the equivalent bottle. Theses picks are typically highly sought after and generally hard to find. They also have a significant amount of bottle to bottle and batch to batch variability. In some cases, it can even be dependent on the selector for the store or liquor authority. For these reasons, I generally don’t purchase these selections since they’re two variable to recommend as liquors for bases for cocktails. I generally follow this rule, but made an exception for Ezra Brooks Distiller’s Collection Bourbon – OHLQ Selection #1.

Ezra Brooks Distiller’s Collection Bourbon – OHLQ Selection #1

Ezra Brooks Distiller’s Collection Bourbon – OHLQ Selection #1 has a 53.5% A.B.V. (107 Proof). It’s barrel number was 7015900, and the barrel was filled 2/23/15. I purchased the bottle in early January of 2021, shortly after it’s release. OHLQ provided the following information on the barrel:

Warehouse: 1
Floor: 5
Rick: 39
Tier: 3
Position: 17
Description: Warm caramel and vanilla, sweet.

Sight: Bordering on tawny.

Smell: The nose undoubtedly starts sweet, and instantly leans into vanilla and caramel. Touches of hay and wheat join in, with black cherries and black tea. A rough splash of clove joins in with touches of clove and tobacco.

Sip: The sip starts smooth and sweet, before opening up into vanilla, caramel, brandied cherries, and oversteeped spice tea. Pops of clove overwhelm the other spices, before allowing oak to come to the forefront. A hint of ethanol comes out too.

Savor: The finish gets tannic, pulling in notes of charred wood, strong clove, and a slight sour cherry.

Ezra Brooks Distiller’s Collection Bourbon – OHLQ Selection #1 is sweet and spicy sip that doesn’t disappoint. The proof isn’t so high as to be difficult to drink, but it comes loaded with flavor. The texture is smooth with just a hint of burn. The complexity is in line with a $35 bottle, and opens up with more sweetness, especially after a sip of water.

In Cocktails

This particular bottle of Ezra Brooks is unbelievably great as a Manhattan. The caramel and vanilla notes come through with touches of black pepper and black tea. The weight feels perfect, just like liquid silk should. The play off the vermouth shows them sharing the space as equals, giving space for the fruity flavors of the vermouth and the sweetness and herbal notes in the bourbon.

Ezra Brooks Distiller’s Collection Bourbon – OHLQ Selection #1 in Review

Ezra Brooks Distiller’s Collection Bourbon is honestly one of the standout bottles I’ve had in 2021. Upon sharing it with my father, he confirmed my bias to enjoy it. At $35, I picked this up as an impulse buy and found it punched well above it’s weight. Which led me to wonder whether or not the rest of Ezra Brook’s selection is anywhere near as good.

In short, I recommend Ezra Brooks Distiller’s Collection, but as a store pick or limited time offering, we won’t be adding it to any of our formal lists.

The Classics: Jack Rose

Posted on September 13, 2021September 1, 2021 by Nick

The Jack Rose fell out of favor for long enough to drag applejack down with it. This wasn’t entirely the fault of applejack, but rather one of the key supporting ingredients, grenadine. For a long time the only available Grenadine was that neon red stuff that was basically sugar. While perfect for Shirley Temples, it lacked the substance to balance out the Jack Rose. Since Applejack only has a few classic cocktails that rely on it, this meant that both Applejack and the Jack Rose would have to wait until the mid 2000s for a revival.

Jack Rose

2 oz

Applejack, Calvados, or Apple Brandy

¾ oz

Grenadine

¾ oz

Lemon (or Lime) Juice

Combine all ingredients in a shaker. Add ice and shake. Strain into a coupe. No garnish.

The Applejack is a delightfully balanced combination of bright apple fruit flavors laced with touches of pomegranate and hints of citrus. When made with Calvados, this drink takes on a more earthy flavor, while apple brandy will allow the pome fruits to shine. Use applejack and the grenadine and citrus get the upper hand while apple notes play background. Overall, it’s a great cocktail that allows the personality of the base spirit to shine through.

Drink Notes & Recommendations

The Jack Rose’s citrus has to be among the disagreed upon cocktail ingredients of any classic. There are essentially three schools of thoughts, and a fourth group of folks that can’t pick a side. The first two are the most common, with the later being alternative recommendations:

Lemon Juice
Lime Juice
Use either Lemon or Lime Juice
Use both

There’s no denying that the last group is the least common, and the most experimental. In the first two groups, there’s not even consensus on which ingredient was first. While some cocktail historians believe the Jack Rose started with lemon juice, others – like Jim Meehan insist it’s Lime.

To try to sort this out, I made both lemon and lime. In doing the side by side, I concluded the answer is a little bit dependent on what you want to experience from a Jack Rose. When using lemon juice, this drink is forcefully reminiscent of a Sidecar. In fact, at least one other cocktail historian calls this a “Pink Apple Sidecar”. The reason for this is the balance. Just like a sidecar, no particularly ingredient gives itself an edge, and the result is a balanced and integrated drink.

Lime provides a much less even drinking experience, but the malic acid provides opportunities for the other ingredients to strut in the drink. The most prominent of these is the applejack, which throws of wonderfully rich earthy notes without overwhelming the drink. The lime juice also creates more bite, so the tannic finish is slightly more aggressive.

Both cocktails are completely serviceable, and I recommend you try both – especially as you vary the base – to find what works best for you.

Applejack, Apple Brandy, or Calvados – For our testing we used Laird’s Applejack, but this is perhaps the least recommended. If you have access to it, Laird’s Bonded will make a significantly more interesting drink. If you’d like to turn up the old world earthy notes, grab a bottle of Calvados.
Grenadine – To make grenadine, combine equal parts by weight pomegranate juice and white sugar in a sauce pot. Heat until almost simmering and all the sugar has dissolved. Remove from heat and allow to cool. Add ½ oz of neutral spirits (vodka / overproof such as Everclear) if desired for preservation. Place in a clean bottle and store in the fridge for up to several weeks. Dispose of if any mold or haze develops.
Lemon Juice – Use fresh squeezed.

Domaine Dupont Calvados Fine Reserve

Posted on September 10, 2021September 1, 2021 by Nick

Calvados is a protected designation within France for apple brandies made within the region conforming to specification. Among the producers is Domaine Dupont, who offers an entry level Calvados at about $40. Domaine Dupont Calvados Fine Reserve is a two year aged calvados that features 80% bitter apples and 20% acid apples. It is fermented and after 6 months receives a secondary distillation. The aging occurs in at least 50% new oak. So is it worth the investment?

Domaine Dupont Calvados Fine Reserve

Sight: A moderate straw yellow.

Smell: Apples, pears, and notes that range between floral and industrial come through. The nose has a soil like earthiness about it. Touches of overly ripe, pressed apples pull through with a hint of vanilla and a light baked quality.

Sip: The mouthfeel is moderate, leaning into thin at points. Notes of apples pressed for cider, caramel, and touches of oak join in. There are light touches of earthiness that gradually grow, a slight heat.

Savor: The ending is more earthy than anything else, leaving slightly bitter fermenting apple note behind. A slightly tannic end.

I’d be hard pressed to sit for a long period of time enjoying Domaine Dupont Calvados Fine Reserve on its own. There’s nothing particularly wrong with it as Calvados goes, providing the old world earth qualities along side a well intentioned spectrum of apple flavors. Notes of vanilla and caramel are glancing and not the lead, but nor are the earthy elements that venture toward medicinal or farm like. Overall, it presents itself well as an expression for something other than sipping.

In Cocktails

In a Jack Rose, the fermented apple notes come to the surface and amplify the caramel and oaky notes. The lemon drags more of the earthiness out, only to cut through it. The sweetness from both Domaine Dupont Calvados Fine Reserve and the grenadine result in a wonderful balance elevating both past their original starting point. That said, if you feel the old world farm flavors are noticeable, you’re not going to seem them less here. They do take on a vanilla crème kind of note, but are clearly inclined toward slightly fermenting apple notes.

While the apple element is not overt in most cocktails, it is present. If you try to use this Calvados to drive an apple flavor you’re going to be disappointed. Rather, what it adds is a subtle oaked fruitiness with an earthiness that adds a rustic sort of complexity. Play within these bounds and you’ll find a reasonable Calvados for a reasonable price.

Domaine Dupont Calvados Fine Reserve In Review

Domaine Dupont Calvados Fine Reserve is a decent enough bottle at the $40 price point. While it lacks some refinement to enjoy it on it’s own, it’s going to add an old world style to cocktails calling for Calvados without breaking the bank. The experience with in the Jack Rose is convincing enough that it deserves at least a try, as it elevates to a level beyond standard expectations. While I’d still recommend against enjoying it on it’s own, I think you’ll be reasonably satisfied with the quality using it in a cocktail.

Dupont’s Website